User: MattShek
Asked on: Saturday, July 19, 2025 at 4:51 pm EDT
Answered on: Saturday, July 19, 2025 at 4:51 pm EDT
Question: I have a customer with a unique situation that I'm hoping someone can help explain. Thanks in advance!!Overview - the customer has a 100 amp sub-panel that was installed for a kitchen and laundry addition that was added to the home a few years ago. I wired the addition, so I can verify that the laundry room is a dedicated circuit, and not tied into either of the kitchen small appliance branch circuits. All circuits are GE 20 amp dual function AFCI/GFCI breakers.The customer's washing machine will operate with no issues at all, it has never tripped the breaker or had any other problems while running on it's own. However, whenever the customer is in the kitchen and uses his vacuum sealer (FoodSaver FM5200 120v 1.06amp - which is plugged into the kitchen countertop circuit) while the washing machine is running it will trip the dedicated circuit breaker for the washing machine. This only happens while both the washer and vacuum sealer are running simultaneously. The kitchen circuit does NOT trip, just the laundry circuit. It happens very consistently, within 30 seconds of him starting to operate the vacuum sealer. No vacuum sealer being used, no problems. He has stated that he will sometimes see a momentary pause in the vacuum sealer's operation right when the laundry breaker trips.I swapped the laundry circuit breaker with the dishwasher breaker just to verify it wasn't a breaker issue. It tripped the second breaker also. The laundry breaker (circuit 10) and kitchen circuit (14) were both on the same phase (A) in the sub-panel, so I asked him to plug the vacuum sealer into the other kitchen circuit (which was on B phase in the sub-panel) to see if it reacted the same and it did. It would consistently trip the washing machine circuit breaker (only while the washing machine is running) regardless of which kitchen circuit he was using the sealer on. No other appliances are affected by the vacuum sealer, as he operated the microwave, toaster, at the same time with no issues. Those appliances can also be operated at the same time as the washing machine with no issues at all.My question is what is the vacuum sealer (while plugged into an entirely different circuit, either A or B phase) doing to the laundry circuit that is causing the breaker to trip? I assume it's neutral related somehow and the GFCI/AFCI sees it as a fault, but I can't make sense of it. And why do no other circuits react this way?? Hope I've explained it well enough, and also hope I'm not missing something simple. Thanks again for any input!
This is a fascinating and frustrating problem! You've done excellent troubleshooting so far. Here's a breakdown of likely causes and how to approach them
Understanding the Problem:
The fact that: The washer runs fine by itself. The vacuum sealer runs fine by itself. The kitchen circuits don't trip when the vacuum sealer is used. The laundry circuit trips only when the vacuum sealer is used and the washer is running, regardless of which kitchen circuit the sealer is on. You've swapped breakers and the problem persists. The vacuum sealer pauses at the same time the laundry breaker tripsstrongly suggests a shared neutral issue combined with the sensitivity of AFCI/GFCI breakers.Here's the likely explanation
Neutral Imbalance
The vacuum sealer, even with its low current draw, is creating a slight imbalance on the neutral conductor. When both the washer and the vacuum sealer are running, the combined load and the slight neutral imbalance may be enough to push the current on the shared neutral beyond the AFCI/GFCI breaker's sensitivity threshold on the laundry circuit.2.
AFCI/GFCI Sensitivity
AFCI/GFCI breakers are designed to detect very small differences between the current flowing on the hot and neutral wires. This difference is usually indicative of a ground fault or arc fault. The slight neutral imbalance, combined with normal electrical "noise" from the washer's motor, might be interpreted as a fault condition by the sensitive AFCI/GFCI. The momentary pause in the vacuum sealer's operation strongly suggests it's electrical draw is causing this event.3.
Shared Neutral (Unlikely but check)
While you say the laundry circuit is dedicated, double-check with absolute certainty that the neutral wire for the laundry circuit is
completely separate from any other circuit in the subpanel, and especially the kitchen circuits. A shared neutral is a common cause of this type of problem. Trace the neutral wire all the way back to the subpanel neutral bar, and visually inspect for any signs of accidental connection or shared terminals. Even a single strand of wire bridging the neutrals can cause problems.4. Voltage Drop (Less likely, but possible)
Although you're dealing with a subpanel, it's worth considering if there's a significant voltage drop occurring when both appliances are running. This can affect the current draw of the appliances and potentially contribute to the AFCI/GFCI tripping. However, since other appliances don't cause the issue, this is less likely.
Troubleshooting Steps (Beyond what you've already done)
Neutral Isolation Verification (Critical)
This is the most important step. Absolutely confirm that the neutral wire for the laundry circuit is completely isolated and dedicated to that circuit only. Use a multimeter to check for continuity between the laundry circuit neutral and any other neutral in the subpanel with all breakers off. You should get an open circuit.2.
Measure Neutral Current
With both the washer and vacuum sealer running, use a clamp meter to measure the current on the neutral wire of the laundry circuit. Also, measure the current on the neutral wire of the kitchen circuit the vacuum sealer is plugged into. See if the sum of those currents is significantly different than the current on the hot wires. This can give you an idea of the neutral imbalance.3.
Temporary Dedicated Neutral
As a test, run a temporary dedicated neutral wire from the laundry circuit receptacle directly back to the main panel neutral bar (bypassing the subpanel neutral bar). This will completely isolate the neutral for the laundry circuit.
Important
This is for testing purposes only, and the temporary wire must be properly sized and insulated. If this fixes the problem, it confirms the neutral issue.4.
Replace the AFCI/GFCI Breaker with a Standard Breaker (For Testing Only)
Important: DO NOT leave a standard breaker in place permanently if the circuit requires AFCI/GFCI protection by code. Temporarily replace the laundry circuit AFCI/GFCI breaker with a standard breaker of the correct amperage for testing purposes only. If the standard breaker doesn't trip, it strongly suggests the AFCI/GFCI is reacting to a neutral imbalance or noise that the standard breaker is ignoring. This helps pinpoint the sensitivity as the issue. Be extremely cautious when using a standard breaker to protect a circuit that requires AFCI/GFCI, as it removes the arc fault and ground fault protection.5. Check for Loose Connections
Carefully inspect all connections in the laundry circuit (receptacle, junction boxes, breaker panel) and the kitchen circuits. A loose connection can increase resistance and create voltage drops or noise on the circuit.6.
Quality of Power
Check the voltage at the receptacle in the laundry room when the washer and vacuum sealer are running. A significant voltage drop (below 110V) could be contributing to the issue.7.
Different Vacuum Sealer (Test)
If possible, try a different vacuum sealer of similar wattage. If the problem goes away with a different sealer, it suggests the original sealer is introducing more noise or imbalance into the circuit.8.
Consider a Line Filter
As a last resort, you could try a line filter (power conditioner) on the vacuum sealer to reduce any noise it might be generating on the line. However, this is more of a band-aid solution and doesn't address the underlying problem.
Important Considerations
Safety First
Always work safely and de-energize circuits before working on them.
Code Compliance
Ensure all wiring meets current electrical code requirements.*
Document Everything
Keep a detailed record of all your troubleshooting steps and findings.
In summary, the most likely cause is a neutral imbalance combined with the sensitivity of the AFCI/GFCI breaker, even if the circuits appear dedicated. Rigorously verifying neutral isolation is the first and most crucial step.
Good luck! Let me know what you find! Flag for review