You're definitely on the right track thinking about solutions. Burning receptacles on continuously-running appliances like this is a common and serious issue, often indicating a problem with the connection itself. Here's a breakdown of potential causes and solutions, considering your specific situation

Understanding the Problem:
Heat = Resistance

The burned receptacle is caused by excessive heat. Excessive heat is caused by excessive resistance. The resistance is most often caused by a loose or corroded electrical connection.

Loose Connections

This is the most common culprit. Arcing occurs at loose connections, generating intense heat. This heat damages the receptacle and can lead to a fire.

High Current Draw

While 15 amps is within the rating of a standard 15-amp circuit, continuous operation at that level can stress the connections, especially if there's even a slight flaw.

Cheap Receptacles

Basic receptacles are often not designed for continuous, heavy use. They can loosen over time.

Outlet Overloading

Even though the toaster itself might only draw 15 amps, if there are other significant loads on the same circuit, it exacerbates the problem.

Wear and Tear

Constant plugging and unplugging (if applicable) can weaken the receptacle's internal contacts.

Why Your Initial Solution Failed (and What to Do)



Hospital-Grade Receptacle

While hospital-grade receptacles are better quality and have stronger contact tension, they don't solve the underlying problem if the connection is still weak. They might last slightly longer, but the arcing will continue and eventually cause the same issue.

20 Amp GFI

Changing to a 20 amp receptacle on a 15 amp circuit is potentially dangerous, as it would allow you to plug in a 20 amp device on a 15 amp circuit. The GFI portion is good for safety, but it doesn't address the core issue of the connection.

Your Proposed Solutions (with Considerations)


Hardwiring with GFI Protection



Pros

Eliminates the receptacle entirely, removing the weak point of connection. GFI provides crucial safety in case of ground faults. Direct connection provides a very solid electrical path.

Cons

Less flexible – the toaster is permanently connected. Requires more electrical work (and ideally a qualified electrician). Makes toaster replacement more complex.

How to do it properly



Dedicated Circuit

Ideally, the toaster should be on its own dedicated 15 or 20-amp circuit (depending on the toaster's actual power draw and local codes).

Proper Wiring

Use appropriate gauge wire (14 AWG for a 15-amp circuit, 12 AWG for a 20-amp circuit) rated for 90°C (or higher) to handle the heat.

Solid Connections

Make sure all wire connections inside the junction box are extremely tight and secure using wire connectors rated for the wire size.

GFI Protection

Use a GFI breaker in the panel or a GFI-protected blank faceplate device in the junction box (though a breaker is often preferred for ease of testing and reset).

Professional Installation

If you're not highly experienced with electrical work, hire a qualified electrician. This is a safety issue.2.

Twist-Lock Plug



Pros

More secure connection than a standard plug, less likely to loosen. Still allows you to disconnect the toaster for maintenance or replacement.

Cons

Requires replacing both the toaster's plug and the receptacle. The receptacle still has the potential to loosen internally over time, although less so than a standard receptacle.

How to do it properly



Choose the Right Type

Select a twist-lock plug and receptacle with an appropriate amperage rating (15 amp or 20 amp, as determined by local codes and the circuit capacity) and voltage (120V).

Proper Wiring

Wire the twist-lock plug and receptacle correctly.

High-Quality Components

Use industrial-grade or heavy-duty twist-lock devices.

Other Considerations and Recommendations



Check the Toaster's Cord

Inspect the toaster's power cord for damage (cracks, fraying, loose connections at the appliance). A damaged cord can contribute to the problem. Replace the cord if necessary (or replace the entire toaster if the cord is integral).

Measure the Current

Use a clamp meter to measure the actual current draw of the toaster while it's running. This will confirm if it's within the expected range.

Check for Other Loads

Make sure the circuit isn't overloaded with other appliances. Consider moving some loads to different circuits.

Thermal Imaging (If Possible)

If you have access to a thermal imaging camera, use it to check the receptacle and wiring while the toaster is running. This can help identify hotspots and pinpoint the source of the problem.

Consider a Higher-Quality Toaster

If the toaster itself is cheaply made, it may be contributing to the problem. Industrial-grade toasters are built for continuous use and may have better wiring and components.

Which Solution is Best?

In your situation, given the continuous operation and the history of burned receptacles, hardwiring with GFI protection (and a dedicated circuit) is likely the best long-term solution. It eliminates the weakest point (the receptacle) and provides the most secure and reliable connection.

Important Safety Note

Electrical work can be dangerous. If you are not comfortable or experienced with electrical wiring, hire a qualified electrician* to perform the work. It's worth the investment for your safety and to ensure the job is done correctly.

In summary


Consult a qualified electrician.2. Ideally, create a dedicated 20-amp circuit for the toaster3. Have the electrician hardwire the toaster to the circuit in a metal box using a GFI breaker.

Good luck! Flag for review