User: mark32, Location: Currently in NJ
Asked on: Wednesday, March 12, 2025 at 6:29 pm EDT
Answered on: Wednesday, March 12, 2025 at 6:30 pm EDT
Question: Hello all,Today I changed lamps in a two lamp G24Q-3 fixture because the existing lamps (LED replacements) had a slight and odd flicker to them. I noticed the lamps were pretty darn warm, approaching hot, when I removed them, almost couldn't handle them with a bare hand. Anyway, I put in some new LEDs, but they didn't work. I then changed the ballast, and when I turned the switch back on, the lamps flashed on for maybe two seconds and went off. I tried another brand of LED'S along with a set of fluorescent, but they all did the same thing. I had to leave it as is for the time being, but will investigate more tomorrow. Any idea as to what is taking place here? Full disclosure, I did not take any voltage readings.
Okay, this sounds frustrating! Let's break down the potential causes for your G24Q-3 fixture issues, given the symptoms you've described. The fact that multiple types of lamps are failing similarly suggests a wiring or fixture issue, rather than simply bad bulbs.Here's a structured approach to troubleshooting
1. Safety First!
Turn off the breaker to the fixture before doing any more work. This is absolutely crucial to avoid electric shock. Verify the power is off at the fixture using a non-contact voltage tester.2. Understanding the G24Q-3 Fixture and LEDs G24Q-3 is a four-pin compact fluorescent socket. It's designed for ballasted CFL lamps. LED Replacements: Compatibility is Key! LED "replacements" for CFLs come in two main types: Ballast-Bypass LEDs
These require you to remove the ballast and wire the socket directly to the line voltage. This is usually the preferred and most efficient method. They often have instructions explicitly stating "Remove Ballast."
Ballast-Compatible LEDs (Plug and Play)
These are supposed to work with the existing ballast. However, compatibility is notoriously tricky. They often specify which ballast types they are compatible with.
3. Diagnosing the Problem
Based on your description, here's a likely scenario, followed by other possibilities: Scenario: Ballast-Compatible LED Incompatibility or Incorrect Wiring. This is the most likely scenario given your description of trying multiple types of lamps after a new ballast was installed. You might have installed a ballast-compatible LED into a fixture that isn't providing the correct ballast conditions. Ballasts can be complex and subtle differences in models might render an LED incompatible.Here's a systematic approach to finding the root cause: A. Confirm LED Type and Instructions
Very carefully read the installation instructions for the LED lamps you're using. Are they ballast-bypass or ballast-compatible? This is the most important piece of information. If ballast-bypass, the ballast needs to be removed, and the fixture re-wired directly to the incoming power. If you didn't do this, that's the issue. If ballast-compatible, check the model number of your new ballast and compare it against the compatibility list (if any) for the LED lamps. B. Check Ballast Voltage
Most CFL ballasts designed for G24Q-3 lamps will operate at 120V or 277V. Check the input voltage specification printed on the ballast itself and confirm that it matches the voltage of your circuit. If it does not, replace the ballast with one matching your circuits voltage.
C. Verify Wiring and Socket Condition (Power OFF!) Carefully inspect the wiring to the fixture and especially the socket itself. Look for:
Loose wires or connections
This is a very common cause. Make sure all wire nuts or push-in connectors are securely fastened. Give each wire a gentle tug to ensure it's properly held.
Damaged wiring
Look for cracked, frayed, or burned insulation.
Corroded or damaged socket contacts
Clean the contacts with a small wire brush or electrical contact cleaner (after ensuring power is off).
Burned or melted plastic around the socket
This indicates overheating and a potential short circuit. The socket might need replacement.
Trace the wiring diagram
Many ballasts have a wiring diagram on the label. Follow it to ensure that the ballast is wired to the fixture and to the power source correctly.
D. Measure Voltage (Carefully!)
If you are comfortable and competent using a multimeter, proceed with caution. If not, consider hiring a qualified electrician.
With the power ON (exercise extreme caution!), measure the voltage at the socket terminals where the lamp pins connect. You should measure the voltage specified in the voltage specification printed on the ballast itself. If you do not, your incoming line voltage might be too low, or the ballast is defective.
E. Ballast Issues
New Ballast Doesn't Guarantee Function
Even a new ballast can be defective. While less likely, it's still a possibility.
Correct Ballast Type
Ensure the ballast is designed for the G24Q-3 lamp type and voltage.
F. Check the Fixture Housing and Grounding
Ensure the fixture is properly grounded. A missing or loose ground wire can cause strange electrical behavior.
Troubleshooting Steps1.
Start with the easiest checks
Wire connections, socket condition, and confirming the LED type.2.
If using ballast-compatible LEDs, try different brands or models. Compatibility can be a real issue.3.
Consider switching to ballast-bypass LEDs. This eliminates the ballast as a potential problem and is often more energy-efficient. But you MUST rewire the fixture correctly if you do this.4.
If none of the above works, it's time to suspect a wiring problem within the fixture or the circuit itself. This might require professional help.
Important Notes
LED Warmth
While LEDs are generally more efficient, some heat is still generated. It shouldn't be excessive, but "pretty darn warm" isn't necessarily an immediate cause for concern if the LEDs are operating correctly otherwise. However, if the heat was significantly higher than expected, it might indicate an issue with the LED's driver or the fixture's design.
Professional Help
If you're uncomfortable working with electricity or can't diagnose the problem after these steps, do not hesitate to call a qualified electrician. It's better to be safe than sorry.
Circuit Overload:* Although less likely, flickering and lamps turning off can also be a sign of an overloaded circuit. If you have many other appliances on the same circuit, try turning some off to see if it makes a difference.Good luck with your troubleshooting! Let me know what you find when you check these things, and I can provide more specific advice. Flag for review