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Topic: 250Volts and NO SPARK WHEN SHORTED

User: bullheimer, Location: WA

Asked on: Wednesday, March 16, 2011 at 6:02 pm EDT
Answered on: Tuesday, May 14, 2024 at 2:53 am EDT

Question: okay i quit. i couldn't figure this out so i walked away from a house (@1940s) because i could not stop the following sitsheasion: 3 lights no workie:three switches in a 3 gang box. nutes tied together. hot in hot out to somewhere.none of the lights work. Fluke meter says 220V to an UNGROUNDED metal box. Ideal meter says 245V to ungrounded box. whether from the hot, OR FROM ANY OF THE THREE SWITCH LEGS you get 240V to the metal box. i loosened all the cable clamps and pushed the cables down in case there was some kind of short and no loss of voltage. neutral and all phase voltages normal in panel. no breakers tripping or tripped.now dig man, i touch each and every wire to said metal box and only getta teeny tiny spark of a almost NOTHING, instead of the huge blast i ASSumed i was gonna get, sending shrapnel across the room inna fireball. Nada!but i gots ta know. I gots ta know!!!! WWWWWWWWWWWWWHHHHHHHHHYYYYYYYYYY IT DODAT?????

Possible Explanations for Low or No Spark



Neutral Break

If the neutral wire is broken somewhere in the circuit, it can cause voltage irregularities and a reduced spark.


High Resistance

The circuit may have high resistance due to loose connections, old wiring, or corrosion. This can limit the current flow and reduce the spark.

Capacitance or Inductance

The wiring in the circuit may have capacitance or inductance that stores or opposes electrical energy, reducing the spark.


Faulty Meter

The meters you used may not be accurate, or they may not be measuring the proper voltage.

Insulated Box

The metal box may be insulated or coated, preventing direct contact with the electrical current.


Ground Loop

A ground loop condition can exist where multiple ground paths are present, causing current to flow through unintended paths and reducing the spark.

Additional Troubleshooting Steps:
Test the voltage between the hot and neutral wires. It should be 120V. Inspect the neutral connections in the panel and at the switches for any breaks or loose connections. Use a non-contact voltage tester to check for voltage on the neutral wire. Disconnect the wires from the switches and test for voltage between the hot wire and each switch leg. There should be 120V between the hot wire and each switch leg. Replace the switches to rule out any faulty components. If the issue persists, consider contacting a qualified electrician for further troubleshooting. Flag for review

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