Okay, let's see if we can figure this out. Without a specific model number or high-resolution image of the wiring diagram, it's difficult to give a definitive "yes" or "no." However, we can explore typical scenarios and possibilities.

Understanding the Issue

The code requirement for a separate circuit for the alarm is a safety measure. It ensures the alarm remains functional even if the primary pump circuit trips or is disconnected. This is crucial for preventing overflows and potential environmental hazards.

Typical Septic Control Panel Wiring

Most septic control panels have these basic components: Incoming Power

Usually a single-phase 120V or 240V circuit.

Pump Relay(s)/Contactor(s)

These control the pump(s) based on float switch inputs.

Float Switches

These detect water levels and activate the pumps and alarm. Typically a "High Level" float triggers the alarm.

Alarm System

This usually includes an audible alarm (horn/buzzer) and a visual alarm (light).

Analyzing the Wiring Diagram (Without Seeing It)

Based on your description and typical designs, here's a breakdown of how the alarm might be wired and potential solutions:1. Alarm Powered Directly from the Main Circuit

In this scenario, the alarm is powered from the same incoming power as the pump circuit. The high-level float switch simply completes the circuit to the alarm. This is likely the situation you're describing, and it's what the code is trying to prevent.2.

Alarm Powered via a Shared Transformer

Some panels use a small transformer to step down the voltage for the control circuitry and alarm. The transformer is usually powered from the main pump circuit. While the alarm is technically on a separate voltage, it's still dependent on the pump circuit being energized. This may be allowable depending on the local inspector and if the transformer is properly sized.3.

Alarm with Provisions for a Separate Circuit

The ideal (and code-compliant) setup. The panel would have separate terminals or wiring specifically for connecting the alarm to an independent power source (e.g., a dedicated 15A or 20A breaker). The high-level float switch would then trigger the alarm using this independent power.

Troubleshooting and Potential Solutions (Based on Assumptions) Option 1: Internal Modification (Most Risky, Requires Electrical Expertise) Carefully examine the wiring diagram and the physical panel. Look for any unused terminals or connections that could be repurposed for the alarm. Identify the power source for the alarm. Trace the wiring back from the alarm horn/light. If the alarm is powered directly from the main circuit

You might be able to isolate the alarm's power feed and rewire it to a separate breaker.

Important Warning

This requires a very clear understanding of electrical wiring and the panel's design. Incorrect wiring could damage the panel, create a safety hazard, or render the alarm inoperable. This option should ONLY be considered by a qualified electrician.



Option 2: External Modification (Potentially Easier)

Install a separate, small, UL-listed power supply dedicated to the alarm. This could be a 12VDC or 24VDC power supply, depending on the alarm's voltage requirements. (If the panel has a transformer, you may be able to get a compatible AC or DC voltage off the transformer.)

Interrupt the existing alarm wiring with a relay. When the high-level float switch closes, it energizes the relay, which in turn connects the independent power supply to the alarm.

This isolates the alarm circuit from the pump circuit. The float switch only controls the relay coil; it doesn't directly power the alarm.

Option 3: Replace the Control Panel (Most Reliable, Most Expensive)

If neither of the above options is feasible or safe, the easiest (though most expensive) option is to replace the control panel with one that explicitly provides a separate alarm circuit. Confirm this with the manufacturer or supplier before purchasing.

Recommendations Before Making the Trip1.

Contact the Manufacturer

The best course of action is to contact the control panel manufacturer. Provide them with the model number and explain the code requirement. They may have a solution or a recommended modification.2.

Get a High-Resolution Picture of the Wiring Diagram

If possible, have someone go to the site and take a clear picture of the actual wiring diagram and the inside of the control panel. This is critical for proper diagnosis.3.

Consult with a Local Electrician (Near the Job Site)

Find a qualified electrician near the job site who is familiar with septic control panels. Share the wiring diagram (if you can get it) and the code requirement. They can assess the situation and provide a safe and compliant solution.4.

Prepare for the Worst-Case Scenario

Be prepared to replace the control panel if necessary. Get a quote for a suitable replacement that meets the code requirements.

Important Considerations

Safety First

Always disconnect power to the control panel before working on any wiring.

Code Compliance

Ensure that any modifications you make comply with local electrical codes.

Qualified Personnel

If you are not a qualified electrician, do not attempt to modify the wiring yourself. Hire a professional.

Documentation:* Document all modifications made to the control panel, including wiring diagrams and component specifications.Without more information, it's impossible to give a definitive answer. However, by following these steps, you should be able to determine the best course of action to comply with the code requirement. Good luck! Flag for review