Mike Dolt Enterprises
Mike Dolt Enterprises
User: UBG, Location: So Cal
Asked on: Tuesday, July 15, 2025 at 11:26 pm EDT
Answered on: Tuesday, July 15, 2025 at 11:26 pm EDT
Question: My customer's pool was constructed in the 80's and is original to the house. The customer just bought the house, had the pool re-plastered, and the pool company installed a new 120V wet niche fixture and wired it into that mess in the pic. The light didn't turn on for the customer, so the pool company did a demo for the customer using a generator to prove to the customer the light fixture was not defective, and then told them they need an electrician.You'll notice in the pics that there's a corroded RMC below the deck box; that was the original pool light circuit. The rest of that abomination seems to be what some handy/homeowner/bad sparky did to get the pool light working after the RMC was abandoned: they tied into a building-original outdoor outlet (which was itself too close to the pool for the 80's), on a circuit wired with #14 NMC, and then added that offset nipple supporting the GFCI/switch. Nothing surprises me any more, and I'm guessing most of you are the same, if you've done much resi service work.I'm here seeking guidance to make sure I comply with current code standards for fixing this (my jurisdiction is on the 2020 NEC). My plan is to run a new circuit on the exterior surface of the building in EMT, GFCI breaker, #12 insulated ground unspliced all the way to the switch, with a switch in an aluminum Bell box as noted (or PVC box). I'm less clear about extending the switchleg from the switch box to the deck box, as I've never installed one from scratch. That box WAS supported by two threaded conduits, but now only one...does it need two supporting conduits, and if so, could one of them be EMT with a RT connector? I'd rather use LFMC out of the bottom of the deck box and up to the switch. The switch would be about 9 feet from the water, and will be GFCI protected.The deck box has no #8 bond in it. The conduit run into the center hub of the deck box is red brass which runs to the niche. I've never seen a #8 bond in a deck box around here, but as I've been reading up on current code for this, I've seen that referred to...I'm guessing it's not needed, but if it is, I want to know.Thanks for reading, looking forward to reading your responses.
Okay, this is a classic "find the code violation" challenge! Let's break down the issues and formulate a compliant plan based on the 2020 NEC.
Summary of Issues
Abandoned Conduit
Corroded RMC is not being used.
Unauthorized Wiring Methods
#14 NM cable for pool equipment is a major violation.
Proximity to Pool
Outlet too close to the pool.
GFCI Protection
Probably missing or improperly implemented.
Bonding
Likely inadequate or non-existent.
Deck Box Support
Questionable support.
Wiring Method to Light
Equipment grounding conductor missing or not properly sized.Proposed Solution (Addressing NEC 2020)
Here’s a breakdown of a comprehensive solution, referencing specific NEC articles where applicable. Remember, this is based on the information you’ve provided, and a thorough on-site inspection is always necessary.1.
Disconnect and Remove Existing Non-Compliant Wiring
Completely remove all the existing #14 NM cable, GFCI outlet, and related non-compliant wiring back to the source.2.
New Dedicated Circuit
Breaker
Install a new 15 amp dedicated circuit breaker (20 amp if that's what the light manufacturer says to use) in the panel. This MUST be a GFCI breaker (2020 NEC 680.22(A)(5)).
Wiring
Run #12 AWG THHN/THWN conductors in EMT conduit from the panel to the new switch location. Use a proper EMT connector at the panel and at the switch box. Ensure a properly sized insulated grounding conductor (#12 AWG) is run with the circuit conductors inside the EMT all the way to the switch box (NEC 250.122).
Important: Grounding Conductor
This grounding conductor must be insulated, and be connected to the grounding bar in the panel, and to the grounding screw in the switch box.3.
Switch and Location
Location
You mentioned 9 feet from the water's edge. This likely meets the distance requirement for a general-purpose switch (consult 680.22 for specific distance requirements).
Switch Box
Use a weatherproof box (e.g., aluminum Bell box or PVC box) rated for wet locations. Ensure the box is properly grounded.
Switch
Use a single-pole switch rated for the application.4.
Wiring from Switch to Deck Box
Approved Method
This is where LFMC (Liquidtight Flexible Metal Conduit) is a good choice (NEC 680.23(B)(2)(a)).
Conductors
Use THHN/THWN conductors inside the LFMC. Include a properly sized, insulated grounding conductor. The LFMC itself can serve as the equipment grounding conductor if specific conditions are met (NEC 250.118), BUT I RECOMMEND PULLING A GROUND WIRE ANYWAY. Make sure to terminate the ground wire properly in the switch box and the deck box.
LFMC Length
Keep the LFMC run as short as possible.5.
Deck Box
Support
This is important. The deck box must be adequately supported. If the original design had two conduit supports, you should ideally replicate that. If you can reuse the original RMC stub, great. If not, you could use a short section of EMT with a rigid-to-EMT connector to provide the second support. The EMT can be attached to the deck with a strap/screw. Secure it well.
Bonding (CRITICAL)
Existing Red Brass Conduit
The red brass conduit from the deck box to the light niche acts as a conduit.
#8 AWG Solid Copper Bonding Conductor
This is required (NEC 680.26). Here's the breakdown: Connect a #8 AWG solid copper bonding conductor to the pool reinforcing steel (rebar). If the pool shell is non-conductive (fiberglass), you'll need to create a bonding grid according to 680.26(B). Connect this #8 AWG conductor to the metal parts of the pool pump motor. Connect this #8 AWG conductor to the metal parts of any metal fittings within the pool structure (ladders, handrails, etc.). Connect this #8 AWG conductor to the equipment grounding terminal of the new circuit.
Connect this #8 AWG conductor to an approved lug in the deck box. Bond all metal parts of the pool system Connections within Deck Box
Use waterproof connectors suitable for wet locations.6.
Wet Niche Fixture
Verify Compliance
Ensure the wet niche fixture is UL-listed and suitable for its intended purpose.
Proper Installation
Install according to the manufacturer's instructions.
Conductor Seal
Verify that there is a proper conductor seal at the point where the conductors enter the fixture housing.
Check the lamp
Verify that the lamp voltage is the same as the system voltage.
Check the GFI breaker. Verify that the GFI breaker is working by pressing the test button.
Key Considerations and Code References
NEC Article 680: Pools, Fountains, and Similar Installations. This entire article is crucial. NEC 680.21(A)(1)
Wiring methods for pool lighting fixtures.
NEC 680.22
Receptacles, Lighting, and Switching Devices. Pay close attention to distances from the pool.
NEC 680.23(B)
Specific requirements for underwater luminaires.
NEC 680.26
Bonding. This is where many pool installations fail. Pay close attention to the requirements for bonding the pool structure, metal fittings, and equipment.
NEC 250
Grounding and Bonding.
GFCI Protection
GFCI protection is required for pool lighting circuits.
Important Notes
Local Amendments
Be sure to check with your local building department for any local amendments to the NEC.
Permits and Inspections
Obtain the necessary permits and schedule inspections.
Competent Professional
This type of work should only be performed by a qualified and licensed electrician with experience in pool electrical systems. The risks of improper installation are severe (electric shock, electrocution).
Documentation
Keep detailed records of all work performed, including materials used, test results, and inspection approvals.
Addressing Specific Questions
Deck Box Support
Yes, the deck box needs adequate support. Re-establishing two supports is ideal. One can be EMT, properly connected.
#8 Bonding Conductor in Deck Box
YES, absolutely required. The #8 bonding conductor is the backbone of pool safety. It equalizes the potential between all metallic parts, minimizing the risk of shock. It should be connected to a lug in the deck box.
LFMC from Deck Box to Switch
Acceptable (see NEC 680.23(B)(2)(a)), BUT use THHN/THWN conductors inside the LFMC, and include an insulated grounding conductor.
Disclaimer: This information is for general guidance only. It is essential to consult the NEC, local codes, and a qualified electrician to ensure a safe and compliant installation. Improperly installed pool electrical systems are extremely dangerous. Flag for review