Mike Dolt Enterprises
Mike Dolt Enterprises
User: jbellino, Location: Central Florida
Asked on: Saturday, June 7, 2025 at 3:56 pm EDT
Answered on: Saturday, June 7, 2025 at 3:56 pm EDT
Question: Hello all,I have several questions regarding the upgrade of a meter & 200A Federal Pacific main disconnect in Titusville, FL. Just for context, I am a journeyman IBEW electrician who does mostly commercial/industrial work, as well as some residential on the side. This job is for a pipefitter that I'm acquainted with from work; he recently bought an old house in Titusville, FL, and wants to upgrade his meter and replace the old main disconnect with a new main panel. I haven't done a residential panel swap before, so this is a new experience for me.The first topic is about grounding & bonding. The existing grounding electrode conductor is bonded to the meter rather than the main disconnect. Of course I would prefer to bond the GEC to the main panel instead. However, this is apparently how FPL (the utility company serving this house) requires the GEC to be bonded. FPL is practically impossible to get a hold of, but the quote below is taken from an email from the inspections department of the city of Titusville in response to my inquiry about this:"Jesse,It has been my experience that if the equipment is a meter/main combo (which has a solid buss between the meter section and the main breaker section) then FPL is OK with terminating the GEC in the main breaker section. If the enclosures are separate then FPL requires the GEC be terminated in the meter enclosure.Dave"Given the layout of the meter, wall penetration for the sub feeds, the general real estate on the wall, and the approved enclosures according to FPL, I don't believe I'll be able to get a meter/main combo that will work in this situation (at least one that will provide enough breaker spaces on the main disconnect side). My plan is to get a new meter box and a separate main panel to replace the existing main disconnect.So my first question is, given these circumstances, am I clear to bond the GEC to the neutral bar on the meter, but derive the equipment grounding conductor & neutral bond in the main panel? Or does that need to happen in the meter box?The second thing to address is the ground rod & GEC situation. You can see that there is pavement below the meter & main disconnect, and there is a 1/2" metal rigid pipe coming into the bottom of the meter box, which contains the GEC. Not only do I not want to use metal pipe around the GEC, but I cannot locate what electrode it is bonded to, and I don't have the very expensive tool required to test the resistance on it. All of that being said, I intend to install (2) 5/8" ground rods, each 10' in length, at least 6' apart, bonded both together and to the meter box. I have cadweld molds to use for bonding the GEC to the ground rods; I trust this method much more than using acorns, especially in a humid and corrosive environment like Titusville. I plan to drill into the concrete slab 10-12" off of the house to avoid the footer (also after 811 has come to scan underground).My next question is, does anybody have any recommendations for doing this kind of ground rod install in a neat and workmanlike fashion? I would like to get some kind of ground wells to set into the concrete, and possibly run 1/2" carflex over the GEC to protect it, if that's feasible. I'm not sure what kind of inspection wells or boxes would be suitable for this application, so if any of you have a recommendation, please let me know. Something flush mounted or semi-flush mounted/tapered could be could.With regards to the meter box and panel installation, the meter currently has 2/0 aluminum conductors from SER cable on the load side feeding the line side of the main disconnect through a small 2" nipple. I will be upsizing these accordingly. The sub feeds on the secondary side of the main disconnect are also 2/0 SER aluminum cable going into a 2" sleeve going through the wall, then up to the attic, and over to the sub panel in the garage. I plan to install a 150A breaker in the main panel to land those on. The sleeve with the sub feeds is just over 5' off of the ground on center, so I plan to knock out the hole somewhere in the top space of the main panel and run the wires down to the 150 breaker. The wires are more than likely going to be too short, so I plan to use polaris connectors to extend the sub feeds to the breaker. This layout will also leave the panel just shy of 3' off of the ground from the bottom, which is lower than I would like, but should still be code compliant.Any additional thoughts or suggestions about this part of the plan would be appreciated.I would upload pictures, but the ones I have are too large of a file size and I'm not savvy enough at the moment to shrink them to a small enough size.Thank you,-Jesse
Okay, Jesse, let's break down this residential service upgrade. You've got a good handle on the important aspects, but some nuances need addressing.
Grounding & Bonding
Meter/Main Bonding Location
You're correct in identifying this as a critical point. The email from Titusville inspections clarifies FPL's position.
If the meter and main are separate enclosures, FPL wants the GEC landed in the meter enclosure. So, based on your plan, it sounds like the GEC must terminate at the meter. Your Question
No, do not bond the neutral and equipment grounding conductors in the main panel if the GEC is in the meter. That's a recipe for objectionable current and a Code violation (250.24). The neutral-to-ground bond must be at the service disconnecting means (the main breaker).
Correct Plan
Bond the GEC to the neutral bar in the meter box. From the meter box, run four wires to the main panel: two hots, a neutral, and an equipment grounding conductor (EGC). The EGC connects to the grounding bus in the main panel. The neutral bus in the main panel will be bonded to the enclosure.
Important Note
Make sure the conductors you run from the meter to the panel are sized appropriately per 310.16 of the NEC. If the conductors that currently feed the main disconnect are 2/0 aluminum, you will need larger conductors than that coming out of the meter.
Ground Rods & GEC Installation
Avoiding the Rigid Pipe
Smart move avoiding reusing an existing, unknown grounding electrode system.
Ground Rod Installation
Spacing
6' separation is good, but go further if possible. The NEC specifies "not less than 6 feet," and further spacing can improve effectiveness.
Cadwelding
Excellent choice for corrosion resistance in Florida.
Ground Wells/Boxes
This is a bit tricky aesthetically. Here are some options:
Flush-Mounted Boxes
Look for in-ground valve boxes or meter boxes designed for irrigation systems. They're typically green or black plastic and can be set flush with the concrete. They come in various sizes. Search for "irrigation valve box" or "inground meter box." Be sure any you choose are rated for direct burial and have a removable lid for inspection.
Semi-Flush Tapered Boxes
Some manufacturers make tapered, rectangular boxes that sit partially above ground, often used for landscape lighting transformers. They could work, but check if they are rated for direct burial and suitable for the GEC wire size.
Surface Mount
Some surface mount ground boxes are available; this will not be flush with the concrete, but it will still protect the GEC wire if that is your main priority.
Carflex (Flexible Nonmetallic Conduit)
Yes, using 1/2" carflex to protect the GEC is perfectly acceptable (and recommended) as it rises from the ground wells/boxes to the meter. Just be sure to secure it properly to the meter enclosure and within the well/box. Use appropriate fittings designed for carflex (liquidtight fittings are ideal).
Neatness
The key is careful trenching for the GEC, ensuring the ground wells/boxes are level and properly set in the concrete, and using neat, well-secured carflex.
Concrete Drilling
10-12" off the foundation is a good plan to avoid the footer.
Meter Box and Panel Installation
Conductor Sizing
The existing 2/0 AL from the meter to the disconnect is likely too small for a 200A service. Consult Table 310.16 in the NEC (ampacity of conductors). You will probably need larger conductors. The size of the conductors will dictate your nipple size.
Sub Feed Extension
Polaris Connectors
Polaris connectors are perfectly acceptable for extending the sub feed conductors, provided they are properly insulated and installed in a suitable junction box inside the main panel. Ensure you use the correct size Polaris connector for the wire size.
Panel Height
While slightly lower than ideal, if the panel is at least 3 feet off the ground, it meets the Code's minimum height requirement (check local amendments!). Focus on a neat and accessible installation.
Cable Routing
Since you're going through the wall into the attic, consider using a weatherhead for the conductors going into the building. This will help prevent water intrusion. Use weatherproof fittings for all penetrations.
150A Breaker for Subpanel
Ensure the subpanel in the garage is rated for at least 150A. Verify the conductors feeding the subpanel are rated for at least 150A as well.
Arc Fault Circuit Interrupters
AFCI protection will be required. Consult 210.12 of the NEC for the exact locations that will require it.
Additional Tips
FPL Coordination
Despite the difficulty, try to get written confirmation from FPL about their requirements. Document everything. This will be invaluable during inspection.
Load Calculation
Perform a load calculation (Article 220 of the NEC) to ensure a 200A service is adequate for the house, including future load additions.*
Pictures
Take LOTS of pictures before, during, and after the installation. These can be helpful for troubleshooting, documentation, and future reference. Even if you can't post them here, keep them for your records.
In Summary:
You've got a good plan. Pay close attention to the grounding and bonding requirements, conductor sizing, and local FPL/Titusville regulations. A well-documented, neat, and Code-compliant installation will ensure your client (and the inspector) are happy. Good luck! Flag for review