Mike Dolt Enterprises
Mike Dolt Enterprises
User: jbellino, Location: Central Florida
Asked on: Saturday, June 7, 2025 at 3:59 pm EDT
Answered on: Saturday, June 7, 2025 at 3:59 pm EDT
Question: Hello all,I have several questions regarding the upgrade of a meter & 200A Federal Pacific main disconnect in Titusville, FL. Just for context, I am a journeyman IBEW electrician who does mostly commercial/industrial work, as well as some residential on the side. This job is for a pipefitter that I'm acquainted with from work; he recently bought an old house in Titusville, FL, and wants to upgrade his meter and replace the old main disconnect with a new main panel. I haven't done a residential panel swap before, so this is a new experience for me.The first topic is about grounding & bonding. The existing grounding electrode conductor is bonded to the meter rather than the main disconnect. Of course I would prefer to bond the GEC to the main panel instead. However, this is apparently how FPL (the utility company serving this house) requires the GEC to be bonded. FPL is practically impossible to get a hold of, but the quote below is taken from an email from the inspections department of the city of Titusville in response to my inquiry about this:"Jesse,It has been my experience that if the equipment is a meter/main combo (which has a solid buss between the meter section and the main breaker section) then FPL is OK with terminating the GEC in the main breaker section. If the enclosures are separate then FPL requires the GEC be terminated in the meter enclosure.Dave"Given the layout of the meter, wall penetration for the sub feeds, the general real estate on the wall, and the approved enclosures according to FPL, I don't believe I'll be able to get a meter/main combo that will work in this situation (at least one that will provide enough breaker spaces on the main disconnect side). My plan is to get a new meter box and a separate main panel to replace the existing main disconnect.So my first question is, given these circumstances, am I clear to bond the GEC to the neutral bar on the meter, but derive the equipment grounding conductor & neutral bond in the main panel? Or does that need to happen in the meter box?The second thing to address is the ground rod & GEC situation. You can see that there is pavement below the meter & main disconnect, and there is a 1/2" metal rigid pipe coming into the bottom of the meter box, which contains the GEC. Not only do I not want to use metal pipe around the GEC, but I cannot locate what electrode it is bonded to, and I don't have the very expensive tool required to test the resistance on it. All of that being said, I intend to install (2) 5/8" ground rods, each 10' in length, at least 6' apart, bonded both together and to the meter box. I have cadweld molds to use for bonding the GEC to the ground rods; I trust this method much more than using acorns, especially in a humid and corrosive environment like Titusville. I plan to drill into the concrete slab 10-12" off of the house to avoid the footer (also after 811 has come to scan underground).My next question is, does anybody have any recommendations for doing this kind of ground rod install in a neat and workmanlike fashion? I would like to get some kind of ground wells to set into the concrete, and possibly run 1/2" carflex over the GEC to protect it, if that's feasible. I'm not sure what kind of inspection wells or boxes would be suitable for this application, so if any of you have a recommendation, please let me know. Something flush mounted or semi-flush mounted/tapered could be could.With regards to the meter box and panel installation, the meter currently has 2/0 aluminum conductors from SER cable on the load side feeding the line side of the main disconnect through a small 2" nipple. I will be upsizing these accordingly. The sub feeds on the secondary side of the main disconnect are also 2/0 SER aluminum cable going into a 2" sleeve going through the wall, then up to the attic, and over to the sub panel in the garage. I plan to install a 150A breaker in the main panel to land those on. The sleeve with the sub feeds is just over 5' off of the ground on center, so I plan to knock out the hole somewhere in the top space of the main panel and run the wires down to the 150 breaker. The wires are more than likely going to be too short, so I plan to use polaris connectors to extend the sub feeds to the breaker. This layout will also leave the panel just shy of 3' off of the ground from the bottom, which is lower than I would like, but should still be code compliant.Any additional thoughts or suggestions about this part of the plan would be appreciated.I would upload pictures, but the ones I have are too large of a file size and I'm not savvy enough at the moment to shrink them to a small enough size.Thank you,-Jesse
Okay, Jesse, you've got a good handle on the challenges of this service upgrade. Let's break down your questions and concerns
1. Grounding & Bonding (GEC Location):
Your Plan is Good
Given the FPL requirement, you are clear to bond the GEC to the neutral bar in the meter box. Then, you must derive the equipment grounding conductor & neutral bond (the main bonding jumper) in the main panel (not the meter box). This is the standard method when you have separate meter and main panel enclosures.
Reasoning
The meter is essentially just a pass-through for power. The main panel is where the service disconnect is located, making it the logical and Code-required location for the neutral-to-ground bond.
Don't Bond Twice
Make sure that no other bonding jumpers are installed in the meter box other than from the neutral bar to the metal enclosure of the meter.
2. Ground Rods & GEC Installation
Cadwelding is Excellent
Your choice of Cadwelding is a solid one, especially in a corrosive environment.
Ground Rod Placement
Your planned ground rod placement (offset from the foundation, after 811 clearance) is also on point.
Flush-Mounted Ground Well Recommendation
Hubbell/Burndy Grounding Access Well
Look for a Hubbell/Burndy grounding access well (or similar from other manufacturers like ERICO or Harger). They are specifically designed for this application and offer a flush-mounted or semi-flush-mounted design. They have a removable lid to allow for inspection and testing. These are typically made of non-conductive materials like polymer concrete or fiberglass.
Size
Get a well that is big enough to hold 2 ground rods, the cadwelds, and the GEC connections.
Local Supplier
Your electrical supply house should be able to order these. Be sure to verify dimensions and load rating of the lid before ordering.
GEC Protection
Carflex (Flexible Nonmetallic Conduit)
Running the GEC inside a section of carflex from the meter to the ground well is a good idea for physical protection. Make sure the carflex enters both the meter box and the ground well smoothly and is properly secured with appropriate fittings.
Consider Direct Burial-Rated GEC
If you are going to bury the GEC, make sure it is a bare or insulated copper conductor that is rated for direct burial.
Avoid Metallic Conduit
As you stated, do not run the GEC in a metallic conduit or raceway, as this can create an undesirable inductive loop.
Workmanship Considerations
Straight GEC Run
Try to make the GEC run as straight as possible between the meter and the ground rods to minimize inductance.
Tight Connections
Cadweld each connection carefully, following the manufacturer's instructions for your molds.
Code Compliance
Ensure you comply with NEC 250 for grounding and bonding.
3. Meter Box and Panel Installation
Conductor Sizing
Be sure to size your conductors correctly based on the new service ampacity (200A). Use Table 310.16 and the ampacity correction factors as necessary. Consider voltage drop as well.
Sub Feed Extensions
Polaris Connectors
Polaris connectors are acceptable for extending the sub feed conductors, but make sure they are properly rated for the conductor size and are accessible after installation (not buried within a wall).
Alternative: Junction Box
Another option would be to install a properly sized junction box near the main panel and use appropriately sized splices. This is an especially good idea if you need more space for the connections.
Torque
Use a torque wrench to properly torque the Polaris connectors to the manufacturer's specifications.
Panel Height
NEC 240.24(A)
The NEC mandates that the top of the highest breaker in a panel cannot exceed 6'7" above the finished floor. As long as you meet this requirement, a panel bottom less than 3' off the ground is acceptable.
Accessibility
While code compliant, consider ease of access for future work. If possible, raising the panel even a few inches might improve accessibility.
Weatherproof Considerations
Make sure all the components you are using are properly rated for outdoor use.
Clearances
Be mindful of the working clearances around the panel as outlined in NEC 110.26. Ensure there is adequate space in front of the panel for safe operation and maintenance.
Additional Thoughts
Permitting and Inspection
Ensure you obtain the necessary permits and schedule inspections with the city of Titusville. Be sure to familiarize yourself with any local amendments to the NEC.
Documentation
Keep detailed records of your work, including conductor sizes, grounding electrode locations, and any changes made to the system. This will be helpful for future maintenance and troubleshooting.
Load Calculation
Perform a load calculation to ensure that the existing service and panel are adequate for the anticipated load. If not, you may need to upgrade the service further.
Power Outage
Coordinate with FPL to schedule a power outage for the service upgrade. This will allow you to safely disconnect the existing service and install the new components.
Temporary Power: Arrange for temporary power to be provided to the house during the service upgrade. This will ensure that the homeowner has access to essential services, such as lighting and refrigeration.I hope this detailed breakdown helps you with your project. Good luck! Remember to double-check all your work against the latest edition of the NEC and any local amendments. Be safe! Flag for review